Tuesday, December 20, 2011

The Hidden Treasure of Karang Bayan


Hidden treasure is waiting to be found among the rich art, fruit and forest products of West Lombok’s Karang Bayan village, 25 kilometres east of Mataram.

But it has nothing to do with durian or other exotic natural products – it is an ancient mosque that has been there for three centuries.

Known as the Mosque of Honesty, it numbers among several heritage mosques on Lombok, yet until now it has been overlooked as a religious and tourism attraction
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Moves have started to publicise the historic Masjid Kuno Karang Bayan and to make it a “must see” on tourist itineraries, along with famous places of worship at Bayan in North Lombok; Rembitan in Central Lombok; and Songak in East Lombok.

Local leader Hajji Jayadi says the Karang Bayan mosque may have been a victim of the village’s high profile as a centre of art and fine agricultural produce.

As in many Lombok communities, Karang Bayan’s 300 families are a mix of Muslims and Hindus.  Mostly farmers, they live peacefully alongside each other in the time-honoured Lombok way.

The centuries-old Mosque of Honesty sits on a plot of land five metres by six metres and still features its original soil and bamboo walls and thatch roof.

Locals say it has never been maintained or repaired and its structure is deteriorating. Although it is now fenced off, there are no apparent plans to restore the historic building.

Once an important mosque for many, its place on the calendar of traditional events is uncertain and activities at the mosque have dropped sharply. But Hajji Jayadi says local people are still committed to caring for and maintaining historic relics and keeping social customs once mandated from the mosque.

“It was built hundreds of years ago,” says Hajji Jayadi. Because of this history local people believe it not only symbolises religious or customary rites but also regulates social conformity.

“The people all believe in the power of this mystical place. The mosque is considered the protector of the village from outside dangers. This binds citizens to live according to existing rules.

“Those who have been accused of not acting according to the norms are still taken to the mosque to be tried and punished.”
The mosque exerts tremendous power over local people. No one would dare touch or take away items from the building, a factor that has led to its becoming known as the Mosque of Honesty. “If anyone dared to do this, the people would go crazy,” said Hajji Jayadi.

Local belief is that the mosque is the law and will immediately have proof of any violations.
Karang Bayan has high historical value in Lombok’s story as the site at which the Hindu king Anak Agung Gede Patre founded (in about 1618) a rich kingdom that lasted more than two centuries before the Dutch colonial authorities took over in the late 19th century.

What killed the great wealth of the kingdom was a rule introduced by the Dutch that limited individual landholdings to nine hectares. At that time kingly lands totalled 900 hectares in Narmada, Lingsar and Gunungsari.

Aside from the historic mosque, the Karang Bayan area houses remnants of royal buildings including the Kaputeren, still in use, which Anak Agung Gede Patre built as a haven for his wife and daughters during his absence. The only men allowed near it were guards on the parapets outside the building which was made of similar materials to those of the mosque.

Today the Kaputeren serves as a girls’ hostel for students living away from home. The prohibition on men entering the building is still enforced by local custom and transgressors would face customary punishment.

Hajji Jayadi says the rich history of the area could become a mainstay tourist attraction, especially as tourists are aware of nearby destinations such as Suranadi forest park. The park was created during the reign of King Anak Agung of Mataram to honour a Hindu missionary, Dang Hyang Nilarta.

Not far away is historic Pura Lingsar, the biggest and oldest Hindu temple in Lombok. It was built in 1714 by King Anak Agung Ketut Karangasem near the Toya Hengsar spring which is said to have been revealed to Anglurah Ketut Karangasem on his expedition to Lombok in 1692.


source:enchanting-lomboksumbawa.com

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