The Boat swayed gentle in the quiet, blue waters of North Lombok’s Teluk Kodek, performing a prelude to its ritual and mesmerising dance across the ocean to Gili Trawangan, where time stood still.Only the chirping of birds woke me to the blindingly blue sky dotted with white clouds, from a deep sleep in which I’d missed the return of my friend and host from his night-time fishing.
Gili had already woven its magic, but I had a date with Scuba Froggy – the first French-run dive centre operating at Senggigi on the Lombok mainland and in the famous northern Gilis, and scheduled soon to open in the Kuta area of south Lombok.
I was late … but fortunately a little early for everyone except the very beautiful and engaging Chloe who was working as an assistant instructor as part of her training to become a dive master.
All too soon our conversation was broken by the arrival of the others whose warm handshakes and welcomes immediately transported me from being a lonely alien in this strange maritime environment to being part of the group – a fish in their school.
Warmest of all was senior instructor Akmaludin Hamsyi whose deep understanding of the intricacies of the Gili underwater world stems from the waters being his playground since childhood.
Diving Rule No 1: Keep breathing. Never hold your breath under the water.
As our boat edged out from the Trawangan beach and headed towards the diving grounds off Gili Meno, Akmal used simple language to give clear and detailed instructions on the essential techniques of diving. At the same time he had the two French tourists in our party in constant fits of laughter.
As our boat edged out from the Trawangan beach and headed towards the diving grounds off Gili Meno, Akmal used simple language to give clear and detailed instructions on the essential techniques of diving. At the same time he had the two French tourists in our party in constant fits of laughter.
Pay attention, I willed myself as the gently humming engines guided us over calm dark waters in which my focus on the reflection of overhead birds faded the instructor’s voice to mute and recalled to my mind a fictional childhood hero – Aquaman, who bravely battled the ecological terrorists who were destroying the balance of the underwater environment.
“OK, on the count of three we go down together.” Akmal’s order shocked me from the reverie with Aquaman during which my body had somehow become fully equipped with the paraphernalia of diving.
Do you understand everything I have explained? insisted Akmal. Sure, I signalled, hoping Aquaman would protect me from ignorant failure, embarrassment and injury.
Lean back until your oxygen tank no longer touches the boat. Stay relaxed. Cross right foot over left foot. Ensure regulator is mounted in the mouth, and byeeee …. Let the weight of the tank pull you into the water.
The heavy oxygen tanked dragged me down and I felt only incredible joy at the sight of bubbles in front. I was breathing! We surfaced, to see Chloe with a camera recording our progress, and then used our buoyancy deflators to descend two metres to the seabed.
Stay with me Aquaman, I pleaded, as Akmal kicked ahead, leading us to a deeper area, always looking back to check we were equalising by gently blowing our noses to prevent water from invading the throat, ears and sinuses.
Stay with me Aquaman, I pleaded, as Akmal kicked ahead, leading us to a deeper area, always looking back to check we were equalising by gently blowing our noses to prevent water from invading the throat, ears and sinuses.
Akmal led us past a large boulder which operated as a stage curtain, concealing then revealing an unbelievably wondrous garden of life under the sea. Small fish darted among their large and varied cousins and among brilliantly-coloured sponges and other sea life. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of fish flitted like butterflies to land on flowers to extract the best honey in their garden of paradise.
Ancient Guardians of the Sea
FOUND in all oceans of the world, sea turtles date back 145 to 208 million years to the Jurassic era of the dinosaurs.
The ancient Arcleon, measuring up to six metres long, and the Cimochelys which still exist today are believed to be the guardians of balance in the marine ecosystem.
The Leatherback turtle, the world’s largest, is the only species that has no backbone attached to the inside of its shell.
Baby turtles hatch from eggs and instinctively scramble into the water. There is no interaction with a parent. Babies may take several days to reach water. A popular theory is that a “preference magnet” in the body guides them from land to water, in a straight line but only after they have circled their nest.
Once a male turtle enters the water, it will never re-emerge. Males can be identified by the long tail that covers their reproductive organs. Male turtles raise their necks to attract a mate. The female chooses the male with the highest neck
Sea turtles can swim for hours, without fatigue, at between 1.6 and 8 kilometres an hour. They will travel up to 1000 kilometres to reach a breeding ground. Tracking devises have shown that some turtles can travel 800km a day.
It is a myth that all turtles can tuck their heads into their shells. All tortoises can do this, but not sea turtles.
Sea turtles have lids to protect their eyes from the sun. They can see well in water, but not on land, and are color blind. Turtles don’t cry; they excrete salt from their bodies through their eyes.
Sea turtles have lids to protect their eyes from the sun. They can see well in water, but not on land, and are color blind. Turtles don’t cry; they excrete salt from their bodies through their eyes.
Turtles can dive more than 300 metres for food. Being cold-blooded, they can slow their metabolisms and go for months without food.
Many species are believed to live for 50 to 80 years in good conditions. The very largest turtles weigh up to 680kg.
‘Ooh la la! Please stay with me, Aquaman’
Akmal, instinctively aware of my amazement and joy, signalled to ask if all was fine. I gave the vastly expressionless “OK” sign and silently sent enthusiastic thanks to Aquaman for guiding me to this heaven beneath the sea.
The water currents were picking up as we followed Akmal to a large group of turtles engaged in dining among the sponges. Only Akmal managed to get really close to a large turtle; close enough to write my name in the sea-moss that had gathered on this gentle creature’s shell.
Our truly professional leader took us to a narrow gap under large rocks to sea lobsters, then the thorny yet graceful barong fish playing among red sponges.
Then came the only moment in this maritime adventure when Aquaman let me down. My hero was apparently too busy with keeping me and the marine environment safe to let me have, just for a moment, the skills that allowed Akmal to slowly approach a large, sheltering squid and then to stroke its body, as you would caress a woman, and kiss the creature, without attracting a hint of resistance.
It was time to check our oxygen supplies. Sadly, the pressure gauge reading of 50 meant we should ascend slowly to the surface. On the ascent, I believe Aquaman decided to redeem himself for causing my previous jealousy. A very large turtle swam close to us, above, blocking the sunlight and creating the very memorable impression of an eclipse.
Spontaneously and simultaneously, our little amphibious family gave the “OK” signal in recognition of a remarkable grand finale to a spectacular show in the ocean’s garden of paradise.
source:enchanting-lomboksumbawa.com
0 comments:
Post a Comment