‘Gumise ikat is indeed a masterpiece’
IN a tiny community of only 175 people, 200 metres above sea level in the Gerung region of West Lombok, women labour at their traditional looms to each produce monthly a roll of hand-spun fabric (ikat) at least 50 metres-long.
The women, some still teenagers, of Gumise in Giri Tembesi village, work on 13 hand-operated looms in a 7×12-metre semi-permanent building that has no electricity. They use skills handed down from their ancestors to produce the handwoven fabrics of Gumise that are widely sought for their unique style and motifs. In the process, they are enhancing Lombok’s growing global reputation as a creator of fine and distinctive hand-woven fabrics and aiding the struggling economy of their poor hilltop community.
Gumise suffers from an unproductive topography and its residents eke out a basic living by relying on rain water to irrigate a few crops and by raising some cattle. “Activities like this help our economy in this village,” said Ni Wayan Rina who recently joined the weavers.
At only 17 years old, Rina is the youngest of the women weavers but already is as accomplished at operating the traditional looms as her 16 senior colleagues. For the women of Gumise, using their age-old weaving skills is part of the process of developing and exploring their inspiration, of education and of business opportunity. “Although we are in a remote location, away from the crowds, we apply ourselves diligently to our work,” said Ni Wayan Landri (30), who is chairman of the Gumise craft weaving group. In the small makeshift weaving building, which houses 13 handoperated looms (alat tenun bukan mesin), women are busy spinning and sorting strands of yarn that will eventually become lengths of distinctive ikat.
Landri is on hand to give advice and instruction, especially to the younger weavers. Made Pon, who has been appointed as marketing coordinator for the craft group, said if the finished fabrics could be sent to a West Lombok agent or store, then monthly production from each traditional loom would average 75 metres, allowing the group to meet demand for up to 975 metres of fabric a month. The work of the women weavers of Gumise is consistently displayed at national and regional exhibitions and cultural events, where the most popular motif is gerimis light rain or drizzle.
The West Lombok Regent, through Public Relations head Ispan Junaidi, said the Gumise craft of weaving was a mainstay of creative industries in the region. Local Government understands the importance of seeking a marketing breakthrough to support the craftswomen. There has been talk that the ikat from Gumise might be used in official clothing for local government representatives, in addition to the Batik Sasambo (batik produced locally to the traditions of the indigenous Samawa and Mbojo people of Sumbawa) nominated earlier this year for wear once a week by government officers.
“Looking at the rage of motifs and variations in the fabrics, Gumise weaving is indeed a masterpiece created by women of the mountain,” said Ispan with admiration.
source:enchanting-lomboksumbawa.com
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